Lockhart, TX Part I - Smitty's Market

Lockhart Courthouse

Lockhart, TX - The Barbecue Capital of Texas!
Lockhart is a barbecue Mecca for "meatheads" from all over the state as well as all over the country.  Four major barbecue restaurants can be found here, Smitty's Market, Kreuz Market, Black's, and Chisholm Trail. I will be splitting up covering Lockhart in a two part post.  This week I will be talking about Smitty's Market and next week I will cover the other three.



Smitty's Market

Back entrance of Smitty's

I begin the tour of Lockhart's barbecue shrines with my favorite, Smitty's Market.  My favorite not because the barbecue is great and it is, but because one is exposed to the true and pure Central Texas barbecue experience.
Most Central Texas barbecue joints started as German meat markets that later evolved into "barbecue markets".  Butchers smoked the lesser cuts of meat and thus Central Texas barbecue was born.  Smitty's is no different, it started as a meat market that went by the name of Kreuz Market. Kreuz was founded in 1900 by Charles Kreuz as a meat market that smoked the lesser cuts of meat and didn't offer sauce or forks.  Men would use their pocket knives to cut the meat and pinch it between a slice of bread or put it on top of a cracker. In 1924 the current building which is now Smitty's was built to offer more dining space. In 1948 Edgar A. "Smitty" Schmidt who had worked at Kreuz for 12 years bought the market. In 1984 Edgar sold the business to his sons, Rick and Don Schmidt, and after Don's retirement Rick moved Kreuz in 1999 to a newer facility located off of HWY 183. This lead to Nina Schmidt Sells, daughter of Edgar Schmidt to establish Smitty's Market in the building which formerly housed Kreuz market. "IS EVERYONE GETTING THIS?" (in my Bill Murray voice from Ghost Busters)
It can be a bit confusing but all of this has lead to the Kreuz Market versus Smitty's Market "barbefeud".The feud was supposedly settled  by the Travel Channel's show Food Wars where Kreuz Market won.  I love 'em both so I don't believe the issue has been resolved.

Pit fire box as you walk in back entrance

My buddy Reu and I made our way to Smitty's, and walked in the back entrance to find ourselves in the smokehouse next to the fire box from one of the two pits in the pit room.  The line wasn't too long which is something that is nice about most barbecue places in Lockhart because they provide meat throughout the day (not just lunch), you have four places to choose from, and they all know BBQ fans come from all over, so no one is in a big hurry and you don't really have a "lunch rush".
You order you meat inside the pit room and of course I ordered ribs, a sausage ring, and brisket.  Once they wrap up your meat you walk through a door to the "counter" and can choose different cold sides (slaw, potato salad, pickles, jalapenos, etc.).  These are stored in glass fronted deli cases and you can also ordered pinto beans here as well.  I almost forgot, in the refrigerated deli cases you will also find cheddar or pepper jack chunks of cello wrapped cheese.  Don't pass it up, at least get one or the other.  This keeps with the old German meat market tradition and origin of serving cheese as well as meat.. I got some cheddar, small slaw, small potato salad, pinto beans, and a whole pickled jalapeno. (all were good btw). Note: If you must have sauce you have to ask for it.  But if you need sauce you're probably the kind of person who puts ketchup and not mustard on your hamburger and drinks Pepsi.

Dining room at Smitty's

Ordered a beer and a Dr Pepper from the cashier and my buddy Reu and I went to go find a seat. The brisket was moist and tender and well seasoned with a salt and pepper rub as were the ribs that were cooked perfectly.  The sausage was a bit greasy but went deliciously with a slice of cheddar and jalapeno pinched between a piece of soft white bread.  I opted to not look like a Yankee and ask for sauce but I did use the bottled hot sauce that was on all of the tables to add to my sausage and cheddar creation.  Beans and sides were good and went well with the meat.  I did find myself at one point looking for something that I knew wasn't there and at that moment Reu says, "You're looking for a fork aren't you?".  I laughed and yes I was looking for a fork.  You get used to it and learn to use the sliced bread as a utensil similar to the use of a tortilla in "Mexican" food (not Tex-Mex).  They do have spoons and knives however so it isn't a big deal to not have a fork it just adds to the experience and takes you back to the days of  Texas barbecue's origin.

My buddy Reu with meat pierced by knife

My Grub

208 South Commerce

Lockhart, TX 78644

phone: 512-398-9344

Hours:

Mon. - Fri. 7 AM - 6 PM

Sat. 7 AM - 6:30 PM

Sun.  9 AM - 6:30 PM

Website: http://www.smittysmarket.com/index.html

So if you want to experience great Texas barbecue and one of the places that helped to originate it hit Smitty's in Lockhart.  Next week Lockhart Part II.

Franklin Barbecue

Beautiful Fall weather in Austin

Saving the Best for First

Franklin Barbecue is currently known to be one of the best barbecue places in the state if not the country.  Bon Appetit magazine recently featured it in it's 20 most important restaurants in America issue where it ranked #17.  It was also featured on Anthony Bourdain's No Reservations which is how I actually found out about the place last year.  Tony had to stand in line just like everyone else. Doesn't matter who you are, you will stand in line with everyone else which actually adds to the whole barbecue experience. So I took a trip down to Austin last Fall to check this place out.  I have heard from my cousins who live in Austin that the line gets pretty long really fast so I needed to get there early.

The line at 9 AM

I left Dallas at 5 AM so I could get down to Austin by 8:30 and get in line.  I got there about 8:15 and their were already about 14 people waiting outside the front door already forming a line, the place opens at 11 AM.  I got my place in line and eventually started talking to the guy next to me who works for Dell computers and he was saving a place for three of his other buddies who also work for Dell. His buddies got there just before 10 AM and introductions were made and shortly after that an employee started going through the line asking for what each person was going to order (They don't actually take your order).  They do this because they only smoke so much meat and need to calculate where in the line and who gets to hold the "cut off" sign.  The sign basically states: "If you are behind this person we cannot guarantee you will be served". While one employee asks you what you are going to order another employee sells beer and sodas in line, at this point we are still one hour away from opening.  By the way you can bring your own beer and drink it in line which many people do and did on the day I was there. So, it's now 11 AM and they start letting people in to order.

The line at 10:30 AM

When you first step in the place you still have a little way to go before you get up to the counter.  While in line I killed some time taking in the decor which is not what you would think of a barbecue joint.  Turquoise walls and 50's dinner style tables and Ikea-like chairs with "do not save seats" signs on all of the tables which helps to not disrupt the "pace" of the line and the diners finding seats.  They also have a fairly large patio that runs most of the length of one side of the building.  After another 20 minutes in line I finally made it up to the counter and the pit master. I ordered one link of sausage, 1/4 lb of brisket, and two ribs and no sides because I still had two other barbecue destinations to visit that day. Had to save some room. The pit master cut me a couple of burnt ends as I ordered so I savored those pieces of meat candy while he was building my order.

Funky dining room at Franklin's

So my line buddies from Dell invited me to sit with them and we all dove in! I featured Franklin as my first place to write an "opinion" on because I think it's the best in Texas.  They did all three parts of the "Holy Trinity" of barbecue to perfection.  The brisket was moist and well marbled with a simple salt and pepper rub that melted in your mouth.  The ribs again with just a salt and pepper rub were cooked perfectly with meat that was tender to the bite but didn't fall of the bone and they had great flavor with a well pronounced smoke ring.  The sausage had a great blend of meats and was well packed in a really good "hot link" style natural casing that snapped when you bit into it.  My mouth is watering just writing about it.

The Tipsy Texan

Now one of the guys from Dell order what is called the Tipsy Texan to take back to a coworker back at the office. The Tipsy Texan is a barbecue sandwich made up of mostly sliced brisket, some sliced sausage, coleslaw, and pickles.  If I didn't have other places to hit that day I would have taken one to go.  In fact I'm planning another Fall BBQ trip this November and will have to go back for a Tipsy Texan.

Line com-padres from Dell 

As for sides I can't speak for them because I didn't get any.  It's more about the meat when you wait two and a half hours in line for barbecue. All-in-all it was well worth it.  The food is great, the experience was genuine Texas barbecue, and I got to meet people who are true BBQ fans because they all waited in a line for at least an hour plus.  I highly recommend it but get there early, they always sell out by 1 PM.

Franklin Barbecue

900 E. 11th Street 

Austin, TX 78702

Phone 512-653-1187

Open Tue - Sun (Closed Mondays)

Hours: 11 AM - Sold out

http://franklinbarbecue.com/

My sampling

Line as I was leaving

Tis the season...for dove hunting and BBQ

Sunrise in the field - Coleman, TX

Dove season is upon us!

Well the birds are flying, guns are popping, and cold beer is chilling. Yes, dove season has begun and for those of you who don't know the familiar recipe for smoking dove I will share it later in this week's post. Not a lot to this post but to share some great picks of some of the BBQ fare and of the mean BBQ pit trailer of one of the guys who goes hunting with us each year.  My work com padres and I go out to Coleman, TX every season as close to opening weekend as possible.  Most of us are restaurant types so we know our way around food but this year we were in for a treat when Joe, AKA "Smoking Joe", brought his BBQ rig complete with prep area, working sink, and of course the pit.  The pit is an old propane tank outfitted with a fire box on one side, main pit in the middle, and vertical smoker on the other end.

So our menu for the weekend was Friday night: split chicken, venison/pork sausage, baked beans (smoked for 6 hours - Jason Jandera), and corn in the husk (smoked in the vertical smoker cabinet).  Saturday lunch: pulled pork sandwiches. Saturday dinner: brisket, prime rib-eye w/ blue cheese horse radish sauce, baked potatoes, and salad. It was tasty!!

Prime rib-eye

Split chicken

"Smoking Joe" (left)

Firebox

As I mentioned above here is a quick recipe or really procedure for barbecuing dove:

These were done last year

Most Texans know this recipe but for those of you who don't here ya go!

After you've cleaned the dove you can either cut the breast meat off along the breast bone or leave it on and cut off later.  Either way you need to let the meat soak in some orange juice and milk (or buttermilk) in the refrigerator for a couple of hours.  This will take the gaminess out of the meat. 

Wash off the orange juice and milk.  Cut fresh or pickled whole jalapenos (I prefer fresh) lengthwise and take out seeds.  Fill the jalapeno cavity with plain cream cheese and sandwich the jalapeno between two of the dove breasts and wrap with bacon and secure it all together with a toothpick. (it can sometimes help to soak the toothpicks in some water before use).

Smoke using medium to medium low heat.  They don't take long.  Baste with BBQ sauce of your choice (the less sweet the better) during the last minute or two of cooking.  Enjoy and beware of a stray piece of shot, they can be a bit hard on the teeth and dental work!

Next week I start getting into my BBQ joint opinions starting with the best for first - Franklin Barbecue in Austin.  Until then BBQ fans!

Another Coleman, Texas sunrise peeking through the mesquite trees

"To Sauce or Not to Sauce That is the Question"

Sauce!

Uncle Charles' Sauce

Let's talk about sauce

So sauce does play a big role in BBQ. You have your Carolina sauce which is mustard and vinegar based and goes nicely with pig, you have your Memphis and St.  Louis sauce that is sweet with molasses and goes well with ribs, and you have your Texas sauce that can vary but usually has the "twang" that comes from citrus (lemon and sometimes orange) and a hit of Tabasco or jalapenos and should be used in moderation.

The question is "To Sauce or Not to Sauce" - Richard Lindemann. The answer is, it varies.  I like to treat sauce like salt and pepper.  Taste your BBQ as you would food before adding anything. The only strong opinion I really have regarding sauce and BBQ is I don't think one should ever dip or smother brisket unless it is dry or super lean with little flavor. Sauce ribs
and sausage as you like but remember the salt and pepper rule.

Grilling Chicken Wings & Leg Quarters

 I'm going to include two family recipes with this post.  One is from the Weber family of Beaumont, TX that my parents and myself have been using for many years.  The other is a family recipe from my great Uncle Charles being my grandfather's brother. Funny thing about Uncle Charles' sauce is the following. When I went to Louie Mueller BBQ in Taylor I noticed a certain trait in the sauce.  Louie Mueller's sauce has sliced onions not chopped in the sauce and the only sauce I have ever seen with sliced onions was my Uncle Charles'.  I later come to find out that Louie, my Uncle Charles, his brother Marcus, and my grandfather are cousins to Louie.  So that made some sense.  Although they share the sliced onion similarity Louie's is a bit more tart keeping with the kind of sauce you might find on the Texas BBQ trail.  Uncle Charles' sauce is just a little bit sweeter. I use the following two recipes for "grilling" chicken and ribs, both are great.  I use the "pre-sauce" or basting sauce for both recipes (you can find it in the first part of Uncle Charles' sauce.  The "pre-sauce" is used as a basting sauce for most of the cooking to keep the meat moist.  You only add the actual sauce for the last ten minutes of cooking or it will just char to the meat due to the high sugar content. One little note when you put the actual sauce on your chicken or ribs is that make sure your fire is at medium or medium low heat.  You want to sauce one side and cook the sauce on and flip it and repeat on the other side.  Continue this repeatedly as if you are creating multiple coats of sauce like varnishing wood.  You will get a good crispy skin of multiple coats of sauce .  So, here are the two recipes:

Uncle Charles BBQ Sauce

Always put some seasoning on the meat before grilling. Use this first mix on the meat while first cooking:

½ onion (chopped)         

Juice of 1 lemon

½  cup cooking oil

1 stick oleo or butter

½ cup to 1 cup water

Mix together and melt butter and brush on meat often while grilling.  About 10 minutes before meat is done start brushing on the following mixture:

1 onion (sliced)

1 ½ lemon (cut up)

½ cup cooking oil

1 ½ cup catsup

1 T. brown sugar

½ T chili powder

1 stick oleo

1 T. Worcestershire sauce

Dash of Tabasco

Salt & pepper to taste

Mix together and heat until butter is melted…brush on meat for the last 10 min of cooking.  You want to brush, cook the sauce on to the meat, turn meat over, brush and cook the sauce on to the meat.  Keep repeating…you are basically creating “coats” of sauce on the meat.

Uncle Charles Sauce

Weber Family Barbecue Sauce

This is a recipe that’s been in the family for over 50 years.

1 stick oleo (butter if you like)    Juice of 1 orange                              1 small onion

1 clove garlic (minced)                   Juice of 1 ½ lemon                           2 Tbsp. brown sugar

1 bottle of ketchup                         1 cup water                                        ¼ cup Worcestershire sauce

½ tsp. pepper or red pepper       1 tsp. chili powder                           ¼ tsp.  salt

           

Sauté onion and garlic in butter. Then add other ingredients. Simmer 15 minutes or so and then add more sugar, lemon juice, or what is needed. Make sure you are tasting and adjust to your taste.

A Footnote

I prepared for this post by grilling some chicken and sausage so I could make both sauce recipes.  My cousin, Staci Pettus, is a rep for Samuel Adams so she brought by four different Samuel Adams products to start her journey of becoming a Cicerone (the beer equivalent of a Sommelier).  One of her first steps is to have a tasting and although they might not have been Texas beers it was fun pairing BBQ with her bounty.  She brought New Belgium Rolle Bolle, Angry Orchard Crisp Apple (actually a Sam Adams product), Sam Adams Boston Lager, and their Octoberfest.  I'm not into "hoppy" beers but the Angry Orchard Cider is fantastic and the Octoberfest kicks ass.  Try them, you just might be surprised.  I'm pretty hard-headed and I was pleasantly surprised.

Well that's it for this week BBQ fans!  Next week I will talk a brief bit about barbecuing some dove.  Tis the season and I'm heading out to Coleman, TX for a bit of cold beer drinking and bird shooting!!